Three powerful nations shaped today's Republic of South Africa:  the British, the Xhosa and the Afrikaner.  It was in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa that they first made contact over 200 years ago.

While there was limited understanding between Xhosa and European settler, the economic needs of both were essentially pastoral, and at first, there was no reason for conflict.  It seemed that there was land enough for all and to spare.  However, inevitably, conflicting demands coupled with the ignorance of each group about the other's culture, together with differing attitudes towards land ownership, spiritual beliefs and civilisation, paved the way for conflict to fester, simmer and finally erupt.

The first frontier war broke out in 1780 and marked the beginning of the Xhosa struggle to preserve their traditional customs and way of life.  It was a struggle that was to increase in intensity when the British arrived on the scene.

The Xhosa fought for one hundred years to preserve their independence and heritage, in a land of great diversity, spectacular scenery and rare beauty.  And still today, this area is known as Frontier Country.

Now no longer the scene of conflict and strife, Frontier Country remains spectacularly beautiful.  In its natural state, it is one of the most diverse regions on earth.  Much of the pristine indigenous flora and fauna is still very accessible, making for breath-taking views, experiences and memories.

Frontier Country is also a meeting place for four major weather systems, which share a common boundary, hence the incredibly diverse environment.  A trip through Frontier Country exposes the traveler to spectacular mountain ranges, valleys, lush forests, scrub bush and some of the most spectacular and unspoiled beaches our country has to offer.

In Frontier Country one can experience untamed Africa at its best and view the 'big five' (seven if you include whales and the Great White Shark) in malaria- and bilharzia-free reserves.  One can indulge in fresh and salt water fishing for trout and ocean game fish, experience some of the most rewarding bird watching (if you're lucky you'll see indigenous parrots in their natural environment) and see a wide range of plant life including the almost prehistoric cycads in their natural environment.  It may also be possible to attend one or more of over 400 performances presented annually at the biggest Arts Festival in the Southern Hemisphere.

Visitors can explore and visit the beautiful towns and villages the British settlers established years ago.  Old mission stations, schools and the university where Nelson Mandela and other prominent African leaders were educated can also be found.

Whether you choose to explore Frontier Country in the saddle - on horseback or your mountain bicycle - by car or coach, by river raft or canoe or on your own two feet, you will be awed by the beauty of its mountains, valleys, plains, rivers and coastline.   There are also opportunities to indulge in adventure sports ranging from skydiving to scuba diving.

Frontier Country people from all walks of life are hospitable and friendly.  Whether you are buying arts and crafts, sampling a traditional meal, enjoying fine cuisine in a country restaurant, having a pint in a country pub, watching a cricket match on an old village green or visiting a township or historical monument, you will be made to feel especially welcome.    There is a great deal for explorers to do in Frontier Country, including visiting historical sites, architectural gems, museums and galleries. 

Come and visit us in Frontier Country and experience the best of Africa!

CITIES, TOWNS AND VILLAGES
Grahamstown

Colonel John Graham established Grahamstown in 1812.  His brief was to survey the frontier and establish a series of forts along the Fish River, the newly proclaimed border with Xhosa territories.  It was the first town to be established by the British in South Africa, its location being primarily chosen for the perceived abundance of water.  It remained a military garrison and was the site of the famous 1819 attack by Nxele (Makana) in his attempt to halt the European incursion into Xhosa territory.

A bitter battle, described as the most significant in South African history, ensued in which the Xhosa were finally forced to withdraw after the timely arrival of a group of Khoi-Khoi hunters under the leadership of Jan Boesak.  Today the battle area is known by the local people as Egazini, meaning the "Place of Blood".  A monument to the Xhosa warriors who died defending their homeland has been erected and specialist guides are at hand to lead tours of the battlefield.

As a result of this battle it was decided to settle 4 000 Britons in the area to consolidate British occupation of the territory.  Their influence on subsequent South African history was far reaching and way out of proportion to their limited numbers compared to the local inhabitants.  After the arrival of the settlers, Grahamstown grew rapidly to become the second largest town in South Africa after Cape Town.  As military activity moved further east and north, education took over as its main infrastructure.

Grahamstown has more than 70 declared National Heritage sites.  One of these is the highest church spire in the country, designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, the architect of many famous buildings of the Victorian era, including the Albert Memorial in London's Kensington Gardens and St Pancras Station in London. 

Grahamstown remains an important educational and cultural centre today, with easy access to game reserves and the unspoilt beaches of the Sunshine Coast.  The surrounding area is farmed, largely for chicory, pineapples, ostriches, sheep and game.  The city is also an important legal centre.  

Fort Beaufort

Fort Beaufort was founded in 1824 and was named after the father of Lord Charles Somerset, the Duke of Beaufort.  Originally a military garrison, Fort Beaufort boasts many fine buildings dating back to the Frontier wars, including the Martello Tower, a circular fort of the kind usually erected as part of a coastal defence system.  The old Victorian barracks is probably the finest to be found anywhere outside the United Kingdom.  During the War of Mlanjeni, the town was attacked and nearly overrun by anti-colonial forces led by Hermanus Matroos.

Fort Beaufort is an excellent base from which to explore the fascinating Kat River Valley and the surrounding Katberg and Amatola Mountains which saw some of the heaviest fighting anywhere in South Africa.  At Fort Fordyce the great Xhosa chief Maqoma humiliated the British hero Sir Harry Smith.

Sidbury

A small village set out by Richard Daniel in the early 1830's along the lines of an English country village with Daniel's house, Sidbury Park, being set a little way from the village.  Sidbury boasts two splendid churches, Anglican and Methodist.  It has a number of war graves in the church graveyards.  The area is of importance to South African agricultural history as merino sheep were first imported to this area, which then led to a wool boom.  It was also from here that Merino sheep were first exported to Australia, marking the beginning of that country's massive modern wool industry.

Salem

The Methodist Church founded Salem in the mid 1820's.  It is famous for its many fine buildings and also for the historic negotiations between Richard Gush and approaching Xhosa during the War of Hintsa, when the Xhosa agreed to leave the village in peace.  Salem has a village green on which cricket matches have been played since 1844.

Riebeeck East

The Dutch Reformed Church established the village of Riebeek East in 1830 on the farm Mooimeisiesfontein, the home of the famous Voortrekker leader Piet Retief.  Previously the local Boer farmers had to trek to Uitenhage, about 130 kilometres away for the Nagmaal (Communion services).  The need for a church in the area became very apparent and while the British government turned down an initial request in 1826, a second in 1830 was granted.  In the South African tradition, a town grew up around the church.  Riebeeck East is now in the midst of a game and sheep farming area and offers many attractions and hiking trails through the surrounding diverse and beautiful hills.  The Mooimeisiesfontein farmhouse, the home of Piet Retief, still stands and has been declared a National heritage site.

Bedford

This little town is picturesquely situated at the foot of the Winterberg Mountains with heavily forested slopes rising out of extensive grasslands.  It is blessed with extensive bird life and several species of game abound in the immediate area.  The old homestead of Sir Andries Stockenstrom. Lieutenant Governor of the time is nearby.  During the War of Mlanjeni, his lovely old farm, Maastroom, was spitefully razed by British troops.  Thomas Pringle, one of the 1820 Settlers, and his Scottish party played a major influence on the town.  Pringle later became famous as a poet.

Adelaide

Adelaide, too, was originally settled by Scots, who were living in a valley near the site of the town we know today.  It was named after Queen Adelaide, the wife of King William IV, predating Queen Victoria's reign.  The original Presbyterian Church, a declared national heritage site, was built by the Scots on Glenthorn Farm.

Adelaide became important during the War of Mlanjeni when, during the battle of the Waterkloof lasting two years, it was a main transit camp for British soldiers.  During the Anglo-Boer War the town was overrun and occupied by the Boer commando led by Jan Smuts.  It is ideally situated for anyone wishing to explore the battle-sites associated with the War of Mlanjeni.  Fort Fordyce and the Waterkloof.  It also allows easy access to the Game Reserves of Mpofu and Tsolwana and the Kat River Valley.

Alice

A little town situated 20 kilometres to the east of Fort Beaufort, Alice grew around a military encampment known as Fort Hare.  It became well known as a missionary centre, with Presbyterian missionaries founding a famous educational centre known as Lovedale.  Many of the current political leaders in South Africa were educated here and at the University of Fort Hare, which was established to cater for the needs of black graduates from Lovedale and other schools. 

The University of Fort Hare is the repository of the archives of the African National Congress and houses one of the most significant collections of African Art on the continent.

Hogsback

This little village is situated in the foothills of The Three Hogs, which, with the adjacent Gaika's Kop, are distinctive landmarks in the Amatola Mountain range.  The tranquil and pure mountain air is exhilarating, with forests, waterfalls and mist creating a truly unique setting and environment.  There are many interesting walks, one of which takes you to the oldest and largest Yellowwood tree in the entire Cape.  St. Patrick's Church on the hill is a much-favored church for weddings.

GAME RESERVES, NATURE AND ADVENTURE

In Frontier Country

The Frontier Country originally boasted herds of game that rivaled all others.  The region's climatic diversity also meant that a great range of game existed in the many varied biomes compacted into a relatively small area.

Unfortunately, after the arrival of European hunters, a large proportion of the game was shot out, and it was only with the beginning of the conservation ethic in the mid-twentieth century that the situation was reversed and the wildlife of the area made a strong natural comeback.  Today Frontier Country is still the only place in Africa where one can view the big five in an environment free of malaria, bilharzia and other tropical diseases and in their natural habitat!

The area now has nearly a million hectares devoted to game.  A range of public and private nature reserves span the area, from the world famous Addo Elephant Park in the west to the magnificent Double Drift in the east.

HISTORY AND CULTURE

The Eastern Cape Province can boast to be the cradle of human culture.  Archaeological sites have revealed evidence of cultural activity predating sites found in other parts of the world.  Although these sites are not in the Frontier Country area, they are not far, and scores of other ancient sites including dwelling sites and rock art are found in the area.  Qualified guides can be arranged to take one to selected sites.  (Please note that all archaeological and palaeontological sites are protected by the South African Heritage Resources Act and they may not be damaged or defaced in any way).

 Frontier Country is also the meeting ground of the Xhosa, Khoi San, Afrikaner and English-speaking groups.  A fascinating, unique cultural history has developed as a result.  Frontier Country is aptly named:  nine frontier wars were fought in the area over almost a century between 1779 and 1878.  These wars are now referred to as the First to the Ninth Frontier Wars respectively.  Some have other appellations, such as the War of the Axe (7th), the War of Nxele or Makana (4th), Hintsa's War ((6th) and the War of Mlanjeni (8th).

Some of the names are a little misleading; while the theft of an axe was the spark which ignited the 7th Frontier War, it was not the cause, but of such incidents and anecdotes are legends made!  The real causes were of a more complex nature.

The Frontier Wars were fought in the following order:

·         First Frontier War: 1779-1781
·         Second Frontier War: 1793
·         Third Frontier War: 1799-1802
·         Fourth Frontier War: 1811-1812
·         Fifth Frontier War: 1818-1819 (War of Nxele or Makana)
·         Sixth Frontier War: 1834-1835 (Hintsa's War)
·         Seventh Frontier War: 1846-1847 (War of the Axe)
·         Eighth Frontier War: 1850-1853 (War of Mlanjeni)
·         Ninth Frontier War: 1877-1878

The periods between the wars were only relatively peaceful, witnessing minor skirmishing, murders and stock theft and the building of forts, garrisons, military posts and signal towers.  Many of these remain today as ruins and sites in various degrees of restoration.  Military villages were established, such as Woburn, Auckland, Ely, Juanasberg, Kempt and Fredericksburg.  A number of farmsteads were fortified, notable Septon Manor, Barville Park and Heatherton Towers.  For the visitor to Frontier Country, all these sites provoke fascinating thoughts and recollections.  One can easily imagine the circumstances that prevailed when they were in full use.

Each of the Frontier Wars and all of the historical sites have stories and legends attached to them.  Of particular interest is the disaster of the Great Cattle Killing that followed the Ninth War.  The Xhosa people were persuaded by a prophetess to slaughter their livestock.  The whereabouts of the head of Hintsa the Xhosa Chief beheaded during the Sixth Frontier War, is still a matter of heated speculation today - it is believed that it was sent to Britain and the Xhosa people are still lobbying for its return.  While the causes of the Seventh Frontier War can be attributed to increasing tension and friction caused by murders, cattle raiding, racism, cultural differences, mutual distrust, misunderstanding and the hunger for land, it is called the "War of the Axe".  The theft of the axe by a leader named Tsili from a store in Fort Beaufort sparked the conflict.  He was arrested and, together with three other prisoners, sent to Grahamstown under escort.  To prevent escape, Tsili was handcuffed to a Khoi-San prisoner.  En route, the party was ambushed, the Khoi-San's hand was lopped off and the prisoner escaped.  This incident sparked off another war, one that saw the British and Colonial forces suffer a serious defeat, losing more than 60 heavily laden wagons at the Battle of Boomer Pass.

Amongst the more interesting of the innumerable sites in the area is that of Fort Peddie.  It was established at the beginning of the nineteenth century after an agreement was reached between the Governor, Lord Charles Somerset and the Xhosa Chief, Gaika.  A neutral zone was established between the Fish and Keiskamma Rivers but it was not strictly enforced and illegal hunting and trading went on virtually unabated.  

Quite apart from the Forts and other sites of military and historical interest, Frontier Country is well represented by several museums.  These include the Natural Science Museum, the History Museum and the only genuine Victorian camera obscura in the Southern Hemisphere at the Observatory Museum, all situated in Grahamstown.  Other museums in Grahamstown include the Eastern Star Gallery, the International Library of African Music, the SA Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity and the National English Literary Museum.  In Bathurst one can see old tractors and other agricultural implements at the Agricultural Museum and there is a fascinating collection of old weaponry at the Military Museum in Fort Beaufort.

There are many buildings around the area that have been declared Heritage Sites; more than 70 in Grahamstown itself.  Shaw Hall is the only place outside Cape Town where Parliament has ever sat and stretches of High Street and Cross Street in Grahamstown boast many National Monument plaques.  Church Square has the finest historic facades found in any city in South Africa. 
 
Sleeping and Eating

Frontier Country has a wide range of places to sleep, eat or simply relax.  The huge national bed and breakfast industry had its beginnings in Grahamstown where some of the best in the country are still to be found.  Frontier Country offers a wide range of accommodation from 3-star hotels, up market guest houses, many B&B's, self-catering establishments, provincial and private game reserves, farm stays, to back-packers and excellent camping sites.  So, when next in our part of the world, or when planning your next holiday or business conference, remember to include Frontier Country in your itinerary.  Stay a while and enjoy the excellent hospitality, attend one of the festivals or just soak up some of the culture Frontier Country is so proud of.

Music, Arts and Crafts

AFRICAN MUSIC IN GRAHAMSTOWN

African music is alive and well in Frontier Country and is promoted by two institutions.  The International Library of African Music (ILAM) at Rhodes University researches teaches and publishes recordings and books on the subject and has the biggest collection of recorded African Music, covering the vast area from the Equator to the Cape.  Founded by Hugh Tracey in 1954, it is presently directed by his son, Dr Andrew Tracey.  Andrew and his son, Geoffrey, teach African instruments they have learned to play over many years from experts in Zimbabwe, Mozambique and other African countries.

African Musical Instruments (AMI) makes a variety of beautiful African and African-derived musical instruments handmade from African woods by Grahamstown craftsmen.  These include popular marimba sets and Kalimbas.

Frontier Country is also home to many composers, arrangers and musicians.  Grahamstown itself is the home of the longest standing "township jazz" band in the country, Sivile.  Numerous concerts are given each year ranging from the totally informal to those put on by music societies at the 1820 Settlers National Monument in Grahamstown.

CRAFT

Being the meeting area of many cultures, it is not surprising to find fine needlepoint work alongside traditional Xhosa beading.

Crafters in the Eastern Cape have been fairly isolated from the mainstream and have consequently developed some unique products that are enjoyed and commented on for both their quality and diversity by national and international visitors.

Throughout Frontier Country crafters will be found trading informally along the sides of the roads.  Grahamstown, the region’s largest city, has many crafters.  Most of these are associated with both governmental and non-governmental development projects.

Products include beautiful bead and wirework and those made from wood and sheepskin.  Patchwork, linocuts, weaving, leather, pottery, basketwork and recycled waste products are also well represented.  One is likely to find exhibitions of traditional beadwork and crafts in the museums in the towns.

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